The Best of Paris Fashion Week - AW 2012

     Most of the looks at Paris Fashion Week were monotonous. As much as they all stayed consistent with trends and silhouettes, a lot of them lacked originality and quirk. There was an epidemic of boxy jackets and leathery pants, some made the cut, others were simply overwhelming. The best way either of these were used well, was with balance. An assortment of more structured jackets to contrast the oversized ones kept runways like Lanvin's more approachable. Leather pants that were well tailored, not baggy, projected class at shows such as Barbara Bui. In addition, plenty of metallics, peplums, fur, and suits were highlights of the week.

1. Kenzo

The look: A Quirky Interior

Key elements: zig-zags, stripes, asymetrical skirts, oversized tweed coats, fruit prints

2. Barbara Bui

The look: Western Meets Oriental

Key elements: tassel belts, oriental prints, leather pants, oversized jackets, military-inspired

3. Paco Rabanne

The look: Go-go Rocker

Key elements: metallics, shift dresses, feather-like fur, sheer overlay, leather

4. Elie Saab

The look: Urban Elegance

Key elements: metallics, jumpsuits, structured tailoring, slit-down-the-leg gowns

5. Lanvin

The look: Polished and Posh

Key elements: lace patterns, colored fur, peplums, skirt suits, leather

6. Pierre Balmain 

The look: Sophisticated with Edge

Key elements: oversized coats, structured suits, slim pants, leather

(photo credits: style.com)

The Best of London Fashion Week - AW 2012

      A lot of unique prints and intriguing silhouettes were on the London runways. I liked the little details that designers included, like David Koma's metal buckles and the burned fabric at Giles. The theme at Issa was a bit lost, pulling inspiration from just about every destination on the map, however individual pieces were still promising. While the looks at Mary Katrantzou practically belong in an art gallery, the models at Burberry could've walked straight from the runway onto the Strand.

 

1. Felder Felder

The look: Glamorous in the Desert

Key elements: acid prints, shearling jackets, bodysuits, metallics, earth tones, fringe

 

2. Giles

The look: Burning Estate

Key elements: cinched waistlines, high collars, velvet, burned fabric, layering

3. David Koma

The look: Power Socialite

Key elements: peplum silhouettes, structured collars, metal buckles, cutouts

4. Matthew Williamson

The look: First Lady Tribal

Key elements: sparkly mosaics, gold pants, cut-out sheath dresses, fur, ankle boots, turquoise

5. Mary Katrantzou

The look: Contemporary Art Exhibit

Key elements: mixed prints, structural dresses, peplums, ruffles, neon yellow, turquoise

 

6. Burberry Prorsum

The look: Tailored and Whimsy

Key elements: rugby stripes, velvet, bow belts, ruffled skirts, animal tees, newsboy caps

 

7. Temperley London

The look: Polished Folk

Key elements: fur hats, A-line skirts, metallics, floral embroidery, sheer overlay, embroidered belts

8. Issa

The look: Mod Globetrotter

Key elements: paisley, bodysuits, fur hats, mixing patterns, metallics

The Best of New York Fashion Week - AW 2012

     To me, New York Fashion Week brought wearability. There were some shows that pushed new ideas and unique concepts, but most were collections of beautiful clothes that I could see myself wearing this very second. There were predominant themes of tough outerwear, pants as the new skirts, and Oriental style. Marc Jacobs was the most talked about show of the week because he took everyone to a surreal wonderland of pilgrim-buckle shoes, floppy fur hats, and layers upon layers of thick imperial fabrics. When New York wasn't in a fantasy world, most collections stood out on the runway as clothing that could just as easily be seen on the street, making those the shows that really captured me. Bizarre and artsy weren't major players in NY this season, but just as fantastically, designers brought innovation to pieces that appeal to the everyday customer. Here's my ranking of the top 20 collections at NYFW...

1.       10 Crosby Derek Lam

The look: High-end Hipster

Key elements: peplum silhouettes, pleated leather skirt over printed dress, bellowy pants

2.       Christian Cota

The look: Artsy Navajo

Key elements: intricate and colorful patterns, captivating furs, perfect draping

3.       Alice + Olivia

The look: Uptown Socialite

Key elements: ombré colors, contrast patterns, powerful metallics

4.       Proenza Schouler

The look: Fencing Chic

Key elements: oriental brocade, rugged leather, bulky silhouettes

5.       Elie Tahari

The look: Woman About Town

Key elements: deep blues, every-occasion jackets, sleek pants

6.       Gregory Parkinson

The look: 1920s Bohemian

Key elements: patchwork-like prints, earth tones, pleats, deep purples and blues

7.       Nicole Miller

The look: Hippie in the City

Key elements: suede, vibrant patterns, floppy fedoras, velvet, florals, military-inspired

8.       Badgley Mischka

The look:  Glam Rocker

Key elements: velvet, metallics, strong shoulders, gothic detailing

9.       Betsey Johnson

The look: Every Decade From The 60s-90s

Key elements: big furs, bright colors, hyper patterns, metallics, mini-skirts, fedoras

10.   Marchesa

The look: Regal Fairy

Key elements: cap sleeved dresses, metallics, skeleton-embroidered tulle, knee-high caged sandals

11.   Prabal Gurung

The look: Extraterrestrial

Key elements: metallics, bright whites, shiny fabrics, cutout dresses,

12.   Michael Kors

The look: Ski Resort

Key elements: chunky sweaters, big furs, bold stripes and plaids, wool ponchos

13.   Charlotte Ronson

The look: New Age Schoolgirl

Key elements: earth tones, Navajo prints, bulky coats, fitted knitwear

14.   Carlos Miele

The look: Rio Cowgirl

Key elements: delicate gowns, cordobés hats, wool ponchos, bolero jackets

15.   Bibhu Mohapatra

The look: Minimal By Day, Imperial By Night

Key elements: intricate embroidery, big shoulders, quilted fur coats, ombré chiffon

16.   Naeem Khan

The look: Mumbai Princess

Key elements: long caftans, mosaic-like prints, beading, ribbon-cinched waistlines

17.   Nanette Lepore

The look: Girly Gypsy

Key elements: bright colors, peplum silhouettes, velvet pants, beaded curlicue print

18.   Mandy Coon

The look: Edgy Basics

Key elements: kaleidoscope print, calf-length dresses, pleats, contrast panels

19.   Calla

The look: Pattern Play

Key elements: granite and wood grain inspired prints, pastels paired with jewel tones, tweed motorcycle jackets

20.   Lyn Devon

The look: Lady-like Simplicity

The elements: clean lines, angora, bird patterned trousers, keyhole necklines

(photo credits: style.com)